Asian Hair is typically very dark - its hair color level is around 3, in other words dark brown. It is also has a lot of color pigments and is very thick. As a result, bleaching Asian hair can be a real challenge.
You can, however, bleach dark Asian hair safely and effectively provided you use a high quality bleach which will not damage your hair. Here are the steps we recommend:
Bleaching - Steps to Follow
First, section the hair into 4 large sections, by making a vertical line (splitting the right side from the left side) and by making a transversal line (from ear to ear). Tie up 3 sections using sectioning clips and leave 1 section down.
Now, mix the bleach with 30 Vol developer until you get a runny consistency. Typically the mix ratio is 1 part color to 2 parts developer. Don't forget you will need to apply the mixture fast, as bleach stops being effective when it dries out. Also, if you apply fast you will get a more uniform color result.
It is also best to begin bleaching at the back of the head. This is typically where hair is thickest and darkest.
These factors are all really important with Asian hair, which generally needs to be bleached by many levels.
Make fine mini-sections and apply the bleach and developer mix with your dye brush. Work your way around the full head.
When applying, never apply directly onto the scalp as this may provoke irritations. Bleach should always be applied off-scalp.
How to Process
Now you need to process. Use Climazone or some other heat treatment as this will speed up the bleaching process and also enhance it.
While the color is lifting, you need to be checking it continuously to make sure what color you have lifted to. The speed of lift does vary from one person's hair to another.
If during the bleaching process you feel that it is not going to bleach enough, or if the mixture is drying out, you can make a fresh mixture and re-apply from time to time.
The mximum processing time is 30 minutes. If you have not attained the desired hair color result, you need to wash off and re-apply.
Using High Lift Color After Bleaching
If you are have checked the level after 30 minutes and want to lift by a couple more levels and don't want to re-apply bleach, you can use high lift color instead. You can apply this either as a full head coloring or using a highlighting technique depending on the hair color result you are looking for.
Dealing with Those Orange Tones
Asian hair has a tendency to have an extremely orange undercoat after bleaching. To neutralize this, it is recommended to do a full head application of color and mix in some mix-tone, in particular green or blue, as this is the best way to neutralize the orange.
For example, for a client who wants to go dark ash blonde (level 6), apply 1 tube 6N mixed with a quarter tube of pure green mix tone. Add in teh correct amount of developer and do a full head application. You will find that you have got rid of all your orange....!
Always Use A Good Quality Hair Bleach
There are a lot of bleaches on the market but there formulations are not the same, as anyone who has bleached their hair can tell you. It is really recommended to use a salon quality hair bleach which will process safely and effectively, giving you the results that you need.
One of the new quality hair bleaches on the market is Brilliant Blonde from Ugly Duckling Los Angeles. It is formulated specifically for dark bases and can lift by more than 8 levels. Ugly Duckling's products are available on line. Please see the link to the website for more details.